MUD-TRAKS® are very strong, but they
do flex. The weight of the truck won't break them but watch out for low hanging
rear bumpers, jacks, and under bed boxes. If the tip of the mat gets caught
behind one of those and the driver keeps going, "something" is going
to break.
In extremely soft ground where the
tires are pushing a "ball" of mud out from under the mats, double-up
the mats. This will level out the pressure and spread load over a wider area.
If the ground under the Jacks/Outriggers is unstable or like "chocolate
pudding", double-up the mats; or use a combination of mats as the base,
with a Jack Pad or cribbing block on top.
If the Jacks have punched a hole in
the ground and won't lift the rig, by doubling the mats or using a combination
of mat and Jack Pad, the rig can be lifted because the mats will spread load
enough to carry the weight.
If the truck is stuck all the way
down to the frame, use the technique in #4 above, then double the mats under
the rear tires and set the truck back down. The mats will carry the load.
Make sure to center the mats over the holes, supporting all four sides.
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Extreme Case: Cracks in the mats, running in from the side. This
occurs when the mat is not supported on one side because of a hole or "quagmire"
mud. The truck is off balance and all the weight shifts to the unsupported
side and "pinches" the edge. We can repair this type of damage
if it's caught early. A "repair" is as strong as new. Prevention:
aim for the center of the mat and fill in obvious ruts. In quagmire, double-up
the mats. If the ground doesn't have enough integrity to "push"
back, we have nothing to lift on.
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Going up a steep incline: There is a limit to how steep a
grade you can drive out of. At some point it is better and safer to winch
the rig out on mats.
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Use low gear and a steady accelerator. If the driver guns
the motor, truck wins every time. Don't stand behind the truck when driving
out on mats. And, if the mats start to move under low-gear pressure, speed
isn't going to help.
We rough up the bottom of the mats and pads so they get a better "bite"
to the ground and resist spinning out. The bottom surface looks like a diamond
plate design that's not finished. It is rough and jagged edged. That's
exactly what it's supposed to look like.
When in doubt, mat the truck in. Driving in first to see
what happens; all that does is tear up the ground and makes the job of matting
that much harder.
Fact of Life: Rope handles break. Fabricate spare ropes and carry them
in the truck.
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Tie a 5' long, large diameter rope in one of the auxiliary
holes. Makes it easier to drag the mats out from under the truck. And,
there's more leverage when standing.
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A flat shovel helps scrap mud off mats. And fifty pounds
of extra mud is hard work.
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A handy tool you can make to measure the ability of the ground
to carry weight is a 2 1/2' long 3/8" steel rod with a "T"
handle. Mark the length of the rod every 6". If the rod goes in the
ground 6", you can drive in without mats. 12", the tires will
leave a 2" or 3" mark. 18", you're going to get stuck.
24", the truck is going to "sink" to the frame right there.
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Use "cribbing blocks" between Jacks (flat or ribbed)
and our Jack Pads. This spreads load over the full face of the Pad.
And, if the ground is "chocolate pudding", slide a MUD-TRAK under
the Jack Pad to help spread load. Jack Pads make the job of jacking easier.
But, "You are, where you are". If the ground won't support the
load, you have to double-up. We will not warranty a mat/pad damaged by
Jack "Ribs".
- On some of the smaller MUD-TRAKS® we provide a means to bolt them together,
and to stake them to the ground. With the "Super Mats" (Model 4896HDS),
we don't suggest either of these options. First, the "Super Mats"
are designed for unstable ground and typically there is not enough integrity
in the soil to hold a stake. Second, if the mats are flexed with a load on
top of them, the pressure on the bolt heads is so great that they can't be
unscrewed.
Clean mats with a water hose and elbow grease.
We use UV inhibitors in the mats, but the sun finally gets
to them. The life expectancy can be greatly increased if the mats are stored
inside or covered from direct sunlight.
When laying mats, overlap them about 6". Always overlap
in the direction the truck is going. That way the mat being driven on controls
the tip of the next mat. The softer the mud, the more overlap is required.
For "chocolate pudding" it can be as much as 2 feet.
(HD) models are used with trucks up to 35,000 lbs over lawns. (HDSL) models
are used with vehicles up to 60,000 lbs off-road. (HDS) models are used
with vehicles up to 100,000 lbs off-road. (HDSS) models (RoadTrak) are used
to build long roadways for heavy vehicles. Call.
The number of mats per "set" should be enough to cover twice the
wheelbase of the vehicle. For utility line trucks, drill rigs, etc. that
would be 12 mats per set. Here's the logic. When the truck is backing up
and maneuvering, it's almost impossible to predict where the front end is
going. And, if the ground is extremely soft, the extra mats are going to
be needed under the outrigger pads to prevent damage or to provide a stable
base for lifting.
We make all sizes of mats: shorter, longer, wider, narrower. And if they
need to be stronger, we'll make them stronger. Color, shape, textured surface;
we do it all. We can customize MUD-TRAKS® to do your job.
MUD-TRAKS® are made from a composite fiberglass material. They are vehicle
traction mats and have a rough textured surface. Eye and hand protection
are required.
